Challenge fifty-two, a white woman with dark hair standing with arms outstretched near some trees on a trail whilst the mist rolls in behind. This is Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park, which has the purest air in the world!

Been Active In The Purest Air In The World

13th-14th August 2023 - New Experience Number 27.

Jump to 'Try it yourself'

Far up north, above the Arctic Circle in Finnish Lapland, is the Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park. During our 2023 campervan road trip we spent time there getting active in the purest air in the world!

On our two day visit I took a deep breath of the good stuff and followed some of the amazing trails in Äkäslompolo and Yllas. The air definitely felt fresh and clean – and a bit wet at times, as I hiked, cycled and ran through the area.

A Bold Claim

If you type ‘purest air in the world’ into your favourite search engine, you’ll see there doesn’t seem to be a definitive answer. I’m not entirely sure how it is measured, or how accurate the results are, but, Visit Finland are proud to claim that their air quality is the best in the world. There is some science behind it from the World Health Organisation, who took measurements from over 100 different countries, and Finland came out top!

A view across some trees to Lakes in the purest air in the world in Finland. It looks beautiful, blue and green and a perfect piece of nature.
A beautiful part of the world - Finnish Lapland

Active In The Purest Air In The World - Hiking

Happy Hikers

We’d found a route for a walk from Askolompolo, so packed up some sandwiches and headed off. The first part of the official hiking route was through the trees by the lake. Despite the cloudy day, the reflections on the still, mirror-like water were beautiful, and it was lovely to be out and about.

A mountainside lined with green trees at the shoreline of a lake. The lake is perfectly still and the reflections of the mountain and trees look like a mirror.
Cloudy but beautiful with mirror like reflections on the lake

A Walk On The Wild Side

The next part of our walk made us deeply question the description of the hike. The official route map had said it was moderate. This section was far more challenging than moderate. It was as though we were walking up a dried up waterfall! It was very steep, and very rocky. There were many times I thought we’d gone wrong, but then eventually a sign would appear letting us know we were exactly where we were meant to be.

Looking along the rocky mountainside, to trees and hills and mist beyond
A challenging scramble to the top

It was tough going; scrambling over big boulders, shuffling over small stones, steadfastly putting a foot down onto a rock to check its stability before pushing off with the other leg. 

Wobbling, teetering, and clambering, we made our way up to the top, where we got a bit of a view of the lake below and the thousands upon thousands of trees beyond. Then the fog moved in. I’m sure on a clearer day the summit provides a lovely vista! As it was, we admired the lunar like landscape and kept moving.

A view from up on a hill at the trees and lake below where the mist is rolling in
Not a bad view despite the fog!
a rocky landscape that is quite flat and barren, with lots of lichen and low cloud
A lunar like landscape at the top

Hiking Haven

We’d made it up the fell above the tree line to the rugged peak. Alongside the multiple shades of grey, the rocks were almost smeared with lichen which looked like it was glowing lime green against the colourless backdrop.

Close up of some stones that look damp with wet and have a smeared covering of lichen over them
Lichen covered stones covered the peak

Grateful for the occasional marker with it’s painted orange tip, we were able to find our way through the enclosing mist to the refuge area. A cosy and welcoming spot where several tracks met and some wooden huts offered respite. Two were compost toilets, one was a fire pit cabin, and the final hut housed lots of chopped wood. 

A stoney path through tall trees, with a marker to indicate the direction of the trail
It was always good to spot a way marker!

This set up was something we had seen a couple of times on our travels around the Baltic Coast and it’s such a fantastic idea. In addition, there was an al fresco fire pit complete with the usual cooking apparatus. It was an ideal stop for anyone doing multi-day hikes and needing somewhere to shelter.

A well built wooden hut amongst trees and grass
One of the brilliant refuge huts

The Last Leg Of The Hike

Continuing along the path which was thankfully now more visible, we began the walk downhill into the trees. It was ever so quiet, I think I had expected to hear more birds, but instead it was almost silent. 

We kept our eyes peeled for moose, apparently they are seen in the area, along with pine marten and lynx. Sadly we didn’t see any of those.  It wasn’t until we were almost back in civilisation that we spotted a reindeer chomping away on some grass. 

Close up of a grey reindeer with big antlers in the green undergrowth
Getting close to rudolph's friends!

Feeling like we had earnt a reward after covering a more challenging 18km than we had expected, we treated ourselves to some delicious blueberry cake and a traditional sauna. Not at the same time though!

Active In The Purest Air In The World - Mountain Biking

I Want To Ride My Bicycle

On our second day in the national park, I was quite looking forward to renting some bikes and going for a ride. We found a route described as ‘easy’. I should have realised after the ‘moderate’ hike from the previous day that their ratings may not quite match mine.

The Other Half is a regular rider and hired a full suspension mountain bike. I took a fat bike, which had less paraphernalia and was similar to my bike at home – but with fatter tyres.

Looking along a wooden boardwalk through lush green grass leading to a deep forest in what is claimed to be the purest air in the world
The great green outdoors!

A Tough Realisation In The First Kilometre

We rode from the bike hire shop and along the shared pedestrian and cycle path. It is a town perfectly geared up for people to be outdoors. It felt good. I was very happy with my bike. It rode well.

After a few false starts, we finally found the actual starting point for the ride we were planning. Approximately 200 metres in, a very uneven slope loomed ahead. It was at this exact point, less than a full kilometre into a three hour ride, that I remembered, I don’t like mountain biking. I realised I’d completely blanked the word ‘mountain’ from my mind when we decided to do this! Nevertheless, I would give it a go.

The first downhill was not too bad, but then the track was not the smooth easy terrain I’d envisaged. Silly me, this was called mountain biking! Since when do mountains have smooth surfaces?

Looking along a biking trail that is winding through a green forest
Lovely scenery, but tricky trails!

Tough Terrain

Multiple tree roots were breaking the surface so it felt like riding over a wash board. Parts of the trail were just loose pebbles and rocks which were not the easiest surface to pedal across. There were narrow raised metal paths which I was certain I was going to wobble off. There were puddles – I actually didn’t mind those.

Uphill was tough going. I found the lowest gear possible and whilst yes, I was moving, the lack of feeling of resistance as my legs went round and round felt uncomfortable. I didn’t enjoy going downhill, my arms were like jack hammers in their sockets as I rode over the uneven tracks. 

My hands were tired from gripping too tightly, and my overactive brain was certain that any sharp rock or protruding tree root would displace my wheels and send me flying. I am fully aware that if you gain some momentum, you’ll easily ride over any obstacles, but that message from my rational brain never seems to quieten the voice of my imagination.

An uneven mountain biking terrain winding through tall green fir trees
Part of the trail that wasn't too taxing

Lesson Learnt

I ended up pushing the bike far more than I would have liked. Some downhills were just too steep for me, some uphills were too rocky. I am very grateful that I had a fat bike. If I had a bike with regular tyres, I’d probably have ridden even less. It was also fairly easy to push.

I felt bad for the Other Half though. I was holding him up, and he very kindly hung back for me on several occasions. He did say he thought it was tougher than the easy description, but he might have just been being kind.

I did it though. I made it around the 20km route and we got the bikes back just in time! However, uneven terrain, too many descents and a lack of confidence all summed up to confirm that I am not a fan of mountain biking. Give me a lovely smooth trail though and I’ll be happy.

Challenge fifty-two, a white woman with dark hair, riding a fat bike on a trail through the forest.
Not my favourite outdoor activity

You Might Love It

Do not let this put you off! If you enjoy mountain biking, then this is an incredible place to do it. It’s really easy to hire a bike there. The scenery is beautiful and the air is incredibly clean and clear.

Active In The Purest Air In The World - Running

Runstreaking

I kept up my run streak whilst we were staying in Äkäslompolo. Each morning I’d be out attempting to follow the trails, and occasionally bumping into some of Rudolph’s friends.

Looking along the trail through the tall trees of the forest.
Fantastic trails through the forest

Plenty Of Trails To Choose From

There were a lot of trails around, and when I’d looked on Plot A Route, they all criss crossed over each other and it was a bit confusing trying to organise where I was going to head. I figured I’d just get out and see what happened – I could always turn back if something didn’t work out.

Close up of a toadstool in the undergrowth of a forest
Incredible fungi found in the forests
Close up of a red and white spotty toadstool in the undergrowth of a forest
I'm not sure these would be suitable for foraging!

There were so many signs I’d never seen before on trails. Signs to say skiers only, or skidoos. I’m not entirely sure if I always ran on tracks that I was supposed to, but it was really quiet and I hardly saw anyone. I ran through forests harbouring more varieties of fungi than I knew existed, and by lakes where the midges made sure I kept on running.

A yellow sign indicating the path is not for walk, but for skiiers only
Not very often I see trails just for skiers on my runs!
A yellow sign indicating that there is a demanding slope and road ahead for skiiers
The summer paths make for great winter routes!

Exploring Before The Village Woke Up

I loved starting each morning with an explore – whatever the weather. It felt amazing to be in the beautiful landscape and extremely fresh air of Finland. As I usually run first thing in a morning, there was something magical about having the place to myself.

A Breath Of Fresh Air - Active In The Purest Air In The World!

Lapland is definitely not just for Christmas. It’s an outdoor adventure paradise in the summer! With almost endless days, the midnight sun not only doses the landscape in amazing colours as the night draws on, it also means you don’t need to worry about it getting dark when you’re out on the trails.

Being active in the purest air in the world was an incredible experience. The nature, the scenery, the trails, the vast wilderness, the forests, the lakes, the peacefulness, the wildlife, the hub of life in the villages, and of course, breathing in clean air in one of the most unpolluted places on the planet. Whatever you get up to when you’re there, a visit to Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park is good for the mind, body and soul!

Sunset over a still lake. The sky has a few clouds and is a warm shade of orange. The trees in the distance are in silhouette
Amazing colours in the land of the midnight sun

Want To Try It Yourself?

  • Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park is a beautiful part of the world. It was fairly quiet when we were there in August, but there was still plenty to do.

  • It looked geared up for winter adventures with dog sledding, skiddoo tours, northern lights hunting and plenty more.

  • If you’re looking for somewhere a bit different for a break, I can definitely recommend a visit.

Cost Of Experience

Of course there is the cost of getting there, and the cost of accommodation, which means the price will be different for everyone. However, once we were there it was relatively inexpensive to get active in the outdoors.

  • Hiking was free

  • Running was free

  • Hiring a bike in August 2023 cost 100 Euros for the two of us for three hours, which worked out at around £87

Recommendations

  • Definitely call in at one of the Visitor Centres. They have lots of maps that you can take with you, or take pictures of, and they will happily help with advice and guidance.

  • I use Plot A Route to help with route planning. It shows official named trails and other tracks and is a great tool to help plan where you are going to go. 

  • Check the forecast before you go anywhere and dress accordingly.
  • If you’re going to follow a trail on your own, it’s a good idea to let someone know your rough route and timings.
  • Take water and snacks with you.
  • There are lots of sports shops in the villages where you can hire equipment.
  • Don’t forget your camera! 

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