Been To The Compass Points Of Ireland.
October 2022- New Experience Number 20.
When we decided to take a road trip around the Emerald Isle we didn’t have a thoroughly detailed plan. We knew that we would mostly follow the coast, and decided to incorporate a visit to the four compass points of mainland Ireland. Two of which have been used as locations in Star Wars films!
The coast of Ireland is utterly spectacular. It is rugged and dramatic with rolling green glens, beautiful beaches and colossal cliffs spiking out of the sea. Visiting the compass points helped us to see so much the country has to offer.
The Route To Visit Compass points of Ireland
We arrived by ferry into Dublin and headed anticlockwise. Firstly we picked up the Causeway Coast which runs 193km (120 miles), from Belfast to Derry. We then followed the Wild Atlantic Way, which at 2,600km (1615 miles), is the world’s longest defined coastal touring route. It’s an epically beautiful road trip between Malin Head and Kinsale and it totally took my breath away.
Furthest East
The furthest point East on the compass points of Ireland is Burr Point in County Down, fairly close to the village of Ballyhalbert.
The small harbour marks its Easterly location with a sculpture made by Ned Jackson Smyth. We took a walk down the pier where you can enjoy the views along the Ards Penisula and across to Burial Island.
When the weather is really clear it is possible to see the Isle of Man. Sadly we didn’t see much at all as it was a drizzly afternoon when we went. However, we did see several people bracing the cold sea for a swim, and a hefty crab that had been washed up on the slip way.
Furthest North When Visiting The Compass Points Of Ireland
Malin Head is the most northerly point in Ireland. It’s also the start or finish point for the Length of Ireland challenge which many people tackle on foot or on wheels. The route to get there through County Donegal was narrow, winding and absolutely beautiful as we drove past old remote farmhouses and by beautiful bays.
Standing tall at Malin Head the signal tower was speckled with plaques from people who had completed journeys to the iconic point for different charities.
On the end of the peninsula, and miles from the nearest building, was something I hadn’t thought we’d see. Like an oasis for thirsty walkers was Caffe Banba. A small coffee van so proud of its northernmost location that it even put it on the napkins.
To safely appreciate the drama of the ocean crashing up against the rocks we followed the well maintained footpath. Dotted around were information signs about the marine life that can be spotted in the waves. Although it was a beautifully clear day on our visit, and despite taking the time to stop and survey the sea, even with binoculars we didn’t see anything splashing amongst the waves.
History Spotting
Ireland is steeped in history. There are so many sights to see and stories to hear as you travel about, and we only saw a handful of them on our trip.
But there was something we spotted several times around the coastline.
At Malin Head, ‘Eire 80’, was written on the grass in stones. It was just one of eighty similar signs that can be found along the coastline of Ireland. These were signs to pilots during the Second World War, indicating to them that they were flying over neutral territory.
Film Spotting
Malin Head, which felt so far, far away, was also a filming location for Star Wars : The Last Jedi. There were nods to this further along the road. We drove around the peninsula which took us past the R2D2 road sign, (which doesn’t actually direct you anywhere), and stopped at Farren’s bar for lunch. Not only the most northerly pub in Ireland, there were also some information and pictures about Star Wars being filmed there. So a great stop for a spot of Wi-fi and Sci-fi.
Most Westerly Point Of The Compass Points Of Ireland
The furthest point west on the compass points of Ireland is Dunmore Head on the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry.
To the left of Slea Head car park down a steep ramp were the gorgeous golden sands of Coumeenoole Beach with the village looking down from the cliff top above.
To the right was a footpath through sheep fields to the most Westerly point of mainland Ireland, Dunmore Head. This was a farmers field and although signposted, it wasn’t quite as geared up for tourists as the Northern and Southern points of Ireland. Rather than clearly marked and well laid paths, this was a mud track shrouded with sheep poo, but it was worth following to the end.
There was a sign boldly claiming this as the most westerly point in Europe. I’m not so sure what Cabo da Roca in Portugal would have to say about that.
The short yet undulating walk along the hill with sheer drops to the wild waves never too far away, gave veritable views of the Blasket Islands.
This was also used in Star Wars : The Last Jedi. Apparently pupils at a local school had a surprise visit from Chewbacca when he was filming in the area!
Although we did ‘Luke’, we didn’t see any Star Wars memorabilia on our visit.
Going South West
With a start/finish line outside the visitor centre at Mizen Head, this is where many people begin or end their Length of Ireland journeys. That’s perhaps why some people consider it the most Southerly point on Ireland.
Similarly to Malin Head, there was a signal tower. In addition, there was an informative visitor centre with a cafe and gift shop. There were also lots of footpaths to follow around the jagged headland safely.
The fences along the walkways may have given it a slight prison-like feel, but they are needed to keep visitors and belongings safe in the extreme weather that can batter the place. And crikey it can get wild! Any cobwebs we may have had were well and truly blown away by the ferocious wind, yet the sun took the edge off and the sea dazzled deep blue. We definitely felt weathered after our visit.
Mizen head was definitely geared up for visitors, however it is the most Southwesterly point on Ireland, and it does state this on their website.
Definitely The Furthest Point South
The most Southernly point is the far less self assuming Brow Head. From Crookhaven, a single track road became a farm track as it rose up the hill away from sea level. The track became a dead end as we reached a gate to a farmers field, which gave views across to Mallavoge bay.
Brow head was a place that has seen much activity over the years due to its location, and you can still see remnants of that by following the footpath. Not only was it used for a signal tower in Napoleonic times, there was also a copper mine, and a signal station. This station was from Marconi, who developed wireless telegraph systems, paramount in ship to shore communications.
It was a much smaller piece of headland, less geared up for tourist visits, still with very impressive views.
Great Directions
We thought a month was more than enough for our road trip of Ireland, and whilst it is totally achievable to tour around the island in less time, we still felt as though there was so much we missed out.
Visiting the compass points in our journey gave us specific places to aim for, occasionally took us off the beaten track, and gave us fabulous views of the wile isle.
Want To Try It Yourself?
- There are so many different ways you can try this yourself. The easiest way to visit all the compass points of Ireland will be self guided, whatever mode of transport you choose to take.
- If you want to visit all four points in one trip, you can follow the most direct roads. If you are starting from Dublin and going anticlockwise it’s a distance of 731 miles / 1,177 km.
Cost Of Experience
Of course there is the cost of getting to Ireland and travelling between all of the different places. The price will depend on how you choose to get around. However, visiting the four compass points of Ireland is very budget friendly.
Cost of experience – prices from our visit in October 2022.
- Burr Point – free car park
- Malin Head – free car park
- Dunmore – Slea Head free car park. There is a donation box to walk across the farmers field.
- Mizen Head- the car park is free, but in order to follow the footpaths to the end for some fantastic and often dramatic views you need to pay admission. Tickets are €7.50 per adult and can only be bought on the day from the visitor centre.
- Brow Head Car Park – there isn’t really a car park here, and whilst you can drive up the road on the hill, bear in mind that it is very narrow so could mean reversing back a long way if you meet anything coming from the other direction There isn’t really anywhere to park once you’re at the top either, and can maybe squeeze in 2 cars at a push. Galley Cove Beach at the bottom of the hill has a bit more space to leave vehicles if you fancy stretching your legs to visit the point. There’s also a sculpture and some information about Maconi, and a lovely little inlet where we heard the haunting sounds of seals before we spotted them bobbing about playfully in the cove.
Recommendations
- Irish weather is wonderfully interchangeable and really can give you four seasons in one day, so don’t forget your waterproofs even if there isn’t a cloud in the sky when you set off.
- Some of the car parks are quite small. Even when we went, which was out of season in October, they soon filled up, so that might be something to consider.
- Take your camera, whatever the weather you’re sure to get some great snaps.
- Take binoculars. There has been an abundance of sightings of wildlife in the seas around Ireland. Basking sharks, whales, dolphins, and seals are regularly spotted.