Cruised, Kayaked And Swam At Lan Ha Bay
7th June 2023 - New Experience Number 21.
Lan Ha Bay is the southern sister to the famous Ha Long Bay in North East Vietnam. It’s apparently a quieter and calmer alternative to the popular well-known tourist destination. I’ve only been to Lan Ha, so can’t really compare, but I do know we had a very relaxing and chilled experience in a stunningly beautiful part of the world.
During a fantastic stay on Cat Ba Island, (a lovely place with very friendly people), we booked a one day excursion on the sea which saw us cruise, kayak and swim amongst incredible scenery around Lan Ha Bay.
Leaving Land
From the scenes at the port, it had felt as though the notion of a private tour had gone out of the window, and that we’d be sharing our ‘relaxing and tranquil’ experience with hordes of others.
It had been bedlam at Ben Beo Pier. So many people were flitting about; tour guides with flags tried to herd their customers through the throng, and groups with matching hats pushed and barged in an attempt to keep together.
Yet as we boarded our boat and chugged away from land, I realised there were just 11 of us on this particular ship. Perfect.
The tour boats soon dispersed in different directions and it didn’t take long for us to feel like we were out on the waters enjoying some solitudinal bliss.
Ship Shape - Our Boat For The Day
Cruising might conjure up images of huge ships. Flash multi storey floating hotels with lots of shops and entertainment on board. Oh and perhaps dinner at the Captain’s table. In Lan Ha Bay it was all on a much smaller scale. Overnight cruises were available, and of course these boats had bedrooms, but none of them were oversized.
Our day cruise was on a pretty little boat decked out with plants and flowers. There was a dining area on the lower deck, and plenty of relaxed seating on the upper where everyone congregated to say hello and make introductions.
Our tour guide for the day was called Mikey who was brilliant fun with a very cheeky streak. Ably assisted by a friendly crew they smoothly sailed us around the bay and served us a a feast at lunchtime.
All At Sea - Cruising In Lan Ha Bay
Leaving the port and passing the busy floating villages, we sailed along on the velvety smooth blue-green water, and were in the midst of some of Mother Natures majestic scenery. We floated past the large limestone rocks rising out of the sea. Like the reverse of a mountain alp, the ancient white limestone formations were topped with a trailing lush verdant green.
Sailing between the karsts it was as though we’d journeyed off the map to somewhere otherworldly. The group soaked up the scenes in quiet awe of the untouched landscape. Tiny hidden coves of white sand, little fishing boats, and swooping big birds appeared as we glided along. What a place. Little pockets of unspoilt beach nestled amongst the silent island giants towering above them.
A Great Atmosphere - Ships That Pass In The Day
There was an atmosphere out on the water I can’t quite put my finger on, but it felt special. Other boats were fairly few and far between, yet when we did pass other cruisers the energy was high. Jubilant cries of hello and enthusiastic hand waving floated over the water as we returned the greetings with equal gusto. Spirits were high on the seas and everyone was incredibly friendly.
Kayaking In Lan Ha Bay
Having acclimatised ourselves to the laid back and relaxed pace of the day, we arrived at the pontoon for some kayaking.
It was all very efficiently run, and we were quickly kitted out with life jackets and helped into our kayak thanks to the ladies running the show.
Mikey had insisted we take a photo of the map before we paddled away. To be fair, this map was not exactly the clearest depiction of the route, and we never looked at it again. There were plenty of arrows on the rocks signposting which direction to go.
Being low in the water made us appreciate just how tall the limestone islands were as they soared high up above us. Paddling around the lagoon we ventured into the mouth of the elusive bright dark cave.
Don't Rock The Boat
‘Turn back!’ Was the shout from a megaphone wielding official. The changing tide and quickening current were deemed too dangerous for us to kayak all the way through the small tunnel in the rock. What we saw of it was very cave like though.
Doing laps in the lagoon was still lovely. The Other Half and I found our rowing rhythm, enjoying some friendly competition with others from our cruise.
The emerald green sea was lovely for kayaking. Unfortunately there were the occasional bits of litter floating past. A jellyfish was also spotted, which made everyone more determined not to fall in.
Floating Feast In Lan Ha Bay
Lunch was a veritable feast which everyone was ready for after the exertion in the kayaks. Plates of freshly cooked stir fry, tofu, omelettes, and fried sweet potatoes adorned the lower deck. As well as a very large plate of salted peanuts. There was also some freshly caught fish. I really wish I liked fish, it always looks like it’s going to be such a taste sensation with it being so fresh and well cooked. Unfortunately, my palette lets me down,
I’ve no idea what the fish was, but I tried some. It looked like tuna, but to me tasted like tough pork. I know, I know, we were by the sea, it was probably incredibly fresh, but I’m not a fish aficionado and it wasn’t for me.
Proudly peeling back the layer of foil, the crew presented us with a plate of fresh oysters. I really didn’t want to be rude after they had so kindly prepared them for us, but I also really don’t like oysters. The Other Half gallantly had two. I used a ‘delicate stomach’ excuse to pardon me from having to indulge. I did feel bad again though, as these looked good for oysters and were probably super fresh, but seeing the Other Half digging at it with his chopsticks to loosen it from the shell, and the excessive chewing to get it down, didn’t really make it any more of an alluring choice.
Snacks were provided throughout the day, from crackers to biscuits to fruit and soup. There was not a chance we were going to leave the boat feeling hungry.
Food was included in the price of our trip, and we were able to buy some much appreciated ice cold drinks on board.
All on deck
Letting our food digest after lunch, everyone in the group took to the top deck as we cruised around the bay some more. Enjoying some ice cold beers whilst a chilled soundtrack, (from The Other Half no less!), played over the speaker on the boat, we relaxed in the tranquil setting.
We spent some time getting to know our lovely fellow cruisers who were from Australia, Germany, Italy, Israel and New York. It was a very leisurely way to spend a day and meet some amazing people.
Swimming In Lan Ha Bay
I didn’t hang about as we jumped from the boat into the cool silky waters and swam to the beach at the cove. The previous jellyfish sighting had made me wary of what lay under the waves, yet once at the sandy shore without any glimpses of tentacles, I happily basked in the shallows.
Three Peaches, (Ba Trai Dao), was a lively inlet with another boat of people enjoying splashing in the sea, skimming stones, laying back in the sand, and cooking lunch over a fire. There was plenty of space in our remote sandy hideaway, and it felt as though we were in the middle of nowhere.
We whiled away an hour or so floating about in the beautiful blue and enjoying the remote spot in a place that felt like complete wilderness.
Messing About On Boats
The afternoon cascaded into a hilarious battle of bravado as some crew and guests tried to out-do each other with back flips off the boat, playful arm wrestling and all manner of fitness related challenges. Others contentedly relaxed on the deck sipping ice cold beers in the sunshine blissfully drifting in the bay.
Land Ahoy
Gently gliding over the still waters back to the port, we passed fishermen hauling their nets up into tiny boats, and dolphin fins arced out of the water. Clouds had rolled in and the sun was setting behind a hazy mist as our boat pulled back into the port which was like a ghost town compared to the chaotic morning scenes.
A beautiful end to a wonderful day in a stunning place.
Want To Try It Yourself?
We booked our tour through the hosts of our accommodation in Cat Ba.
The tour was with a company called Beka travel.
- There are tours available straight from Hanoi so you don’t always need to stay near the bay.
Cost Of Experience
In June 2023 it cost us $45 (11,04203 Vietnamese Dong), each which works out at around £37 per person.
Recommendations
- Most hotels, homestays and hostels in the area will have some connection with a cruise operator. It’s worth checking the website of the tour directly too for full details and prices.
- Take some water to drink with you.
- Pack your swimming kit
- Don’t forget a towel
- You might want to take goggles and/or snorkel gear if you’ve got any
- Don’t forget the sun cream
- Food was provided on our trip, but drinks were separate so take some cash with you. It’s unlikely you’ll be able to pay by card when you’re out on the water.
- Don’t forget your camera!