Taking One Of The UK's Most Scenic Bus Routes
4th September 2024 - New Experience Number 21
September is the perfect time to experience one of the UK’s most scenic bus routes as it’s Catch The Bus Month!
Having lived in York for over 20 years, and with a bus stop less than 15 minutes walk away, I’m a bit ashamed to say I’d never done this before, so made a plan to give it a go as one of my new things for 2024.
Passing pretty villages, busy market towns, by forests, over moorland, soaking up heritage, history, and spectacular scenery for a bargain price, it was definitely worth taking a trip on the 840 Coastliner!
The Route
The Coastliner bus, in particular the number 840, covers 75 miles between Leeds and Whitby,
There are only 4 buses a day that cover the full route, the rest terminate at Thornton le Dale which is well worth a visit in its own right.
There are 91 stops between York and Whitby so it is a fantastic service connecting communities. However, the bus only stops if there is somebody waiting to get on, or if a passenger presses the bell to get off.
It’s the section of the journey between Pickering, the gateway to the North Yorkshire Moors, and Whitby on the North Yorkshire Coast, which has seen the route regularly sit high in lists of the UKs most scenic bus routes.
It definitely topped the UK’s most scenic bus routes in a poll in 2018, but I can’t say with confidence that it still holds the title, as I haven’t found a definitive recent survey.
Catching The Bus
We decided to wait until after the summer holidays for our trip, thinking it might be a little quieter once the schools had gone back, so were surprised at how full the bus was!
Despite being ten minutes early for the 10.27 from York centre, there was already a queue!
The friendly driver welcomed us aboard the clean and tidy bus. Any ideas we had about admiring the views from the front seat on the top deck were quickly wiped out as we climbed the stairs to find that only the back seat was available.
With a USB point at every seat, free wifi on board, and even the occasional bit of commentary, we settled in for a smooth ride.
I’d driven parts of this route many times, so was looking forward to sitting on the top deck and letting someone else navigate the steep hills and tight bends so that I could enjoy the scenery.
£2 per person for a single anywhere on the route is a pretty sweet deal, and so understandably it’s a popular journey at any time of year. I’m not entirely sure how long it will remain at this price, so please do check before you go.
The Places Along The Way
We headed out of York and through the leafy linear village of Stockton on the Forest before joining the A64.
Arriving into Yorkshire’s food capital, we drove through the narrow streets of the busy market town of Malton. Passing plenty of appealing cafes, deli’s and restaurants it’s a great destination for foodies, even more so when one of the food festivals is taking place.
On to Pickering, the pretty and lively town with an abundance of walking routes, a wide range of independent shops and eateries, castle ruins, and the starting point for the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. It’s a perfect balance of a place for outdoor enthusiasts and urban wanderers.
Onward to the beautifully picturesque village of Thornton le Dale which looks like it should be on the front of a chocolate box. With it’s quaint old stone buildings, thatched cottages, attractive gardens, and the gentle flowing Thornton Beck that ripples past the houses.
From there, we headed up the hill and past the entrance to Dalby Forest, a favourite with cyclists and walkers with a multitude of trails to follow. Continuing by golden fields dappled with hay bales, past pheasants strutting through crops, and across the top of the hills.
The Moors - One Of The UK's Most Scenic Bus Routes
And then, we were out on the moors. Following the main road that snakes its way past the iconic cheese grater at Fylingdales, and over the moorland, catching glimpses of the North York Moors railway line in the distance as it winds across the vast panorama.
Thick with colourful heather, the moors rolled out across the landscape under the late summer sky.
We were lucky with the weather on our trip as the sun was still peeking through the clouds. It can be a bit misty out on the top, which makes it feel very atmospheric and evokes the foreboding tales of Dracula rising up from Whitby.
Rounding the bend at Saltersgate car park, the landscape sloped away to the left revealing the 120m deep bowl-shaped phenomenon known as the Hole of Horcum. This natural amphitheatre stretches 1.2km across the valley. It’s an impressive sight and definitely worth a walk on another day.
A Slight Detour
Taking a left turn off the main road we rattled over the cattle grid and felt as though we were heading to the middle of nowhere.
Brazen sheep strolled across the tarmac without a care in the world about the double decker bus heading towards them. Thankfully the drivers are used to sharing the road with our wooly friends and there seems to be some sort of farm cross code in action.
The Famous Station Along One Of The UK's Most Scenic Bus Routes
Rounding the corner we came to the dip where we crossed over the railway line with Goathland station to the right. A perfectly preserved piece of living nostalgia. Immaculately restored carriages stood on the tracks, and the old buildings steeped in stories of bygone travel proudly adorned the platform.
The station felt familiar and has several claims to fame. It’s been used as Hogsmead station in Harry Potter, featured in TV series Heartbeat, and was used in the Holding Back the Years video by Simply Red.
I’ve never been on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway before so that’s something I’ll hopefully try on another day!
The TV Set
Steadily we made our way up the bank, and possibly through a time portal as we drove into the charming village that looks as though it has been frozen in the 1960s.
Extensively used as a backdrop in the TV series Heartbeat, this wasn’t just a set that was built for the filming, this is the actual village, and a popular place for tourists and walkers.
Known as Aidensfield in the programme, the bus passed the tea rooms, the village shops and post office with the shiny old police car standing outside, and by the garage. Apologies it’s not the best picture!
Leaving Goathland
The bus pootled along the main street, and then did a impressively nippy three point turn at the tiny roundabout near the Malyan Spout. As well as a being the name of the hotel, the Malyan Spout is also the highest waterfall in the North Yorkshire Moors and a beautiful place to visit.
We retraced our route back to the main road, which gave us ample opportunity to savour the sights on the opposite side of the road. It is a bit of a detour, but it’s a beautiful village to visit, and fantastic that the bus offers the service to the tourist hot spot.
Back On The Moors - One Of The UK's Most Scenic Bus Routes
Returning to the A169, we got fabulous vistas across the moors, and as we started to drop down towards Whitby we caught our first glimpses of the sea. We also caught sight of some grey, heavy-looking clouds that were rolling in.
Driving through Sleights the old stone properties boasted some lovely flowers in their gardens, a welcoming country pub stood on a bend, and Bothams traditional bakery had a range of treats in the window.
We turned off to Ruswarp where we drove alongside the river Esk and past the wooden pleasure boats moored up waiting for their next relaxing adventure along the water.
Arriving Into Whitby
As we pulled up to our final stop just near the train station, the clouds had descended and the drizzle was upon us.
We didn’t have too long before our return bus, so we put on our coats and hot-footed it to the Magpie Cafe for some delicious fish and chips. Not surprisingly for a town by the sea, there are a lot of traditional fish and chip shops in Whitby.
I’d heard good things about the distinctive black and white restaurant, and I’ve always noticed there’s a queue outside which is a sign of a good place, but I’d never actually tried the food before. It did not disappoint!
Despite the inclement weather, we had a wander to the pier and meandered through the old town under the gaze of the ruins of Whitby Abbey. This is another place on the trip with a claim to fame, as Bram Stoker used it as inspiration for writing Dracula.
Why I Loved Travelling On One Of The UK's Most Scenic Bus Routes
Feeling full and weathered, we boarded the bus to take us back to York. It was another busy service, and once again we didn’t get the prime seats at the front on the top deck.
It was a fantastic way to travel across the moors, and sitting up top certainly gave us fantastic seats to take in the scenery.
With so many stops across such a beautiful part of North Yorkshire, it’s given me plenty of ideas for future trips and possible adventures!
Why You Should Take The 840 Coastliner - One Of The UK's Most Scenic Bus Routes
As the cost of a single was just £2, you couldn’t drive to Whitby for such a small amount, and you certainly wouldn’t find parking for such a low cost.
It really is a beautifully spectacular route, and you can fully appreciate it whilst someone else does the driving!
The changes in season are remarkable on the journey. Whilst it can feel bleak and even more remote in winter, if you travel during the festive season you’ll see the cosy towns and villages all prettily decorated. Spring brings about blossom and lambs, summer sees rich blues and greens as you travel, and autumn shines bright with gorgeous shades of reds and browns.
There isn’t a direct train between York and Whitby!
Inevitably, the bus takes longer than it takes to drive. However, it’s better for the environment, and it’s nice to travel slow and appreciate the ever changing landscape across the moors.
The bus stops outside several campsites, providing a great service for campers to visit further afield during their stay.
There are so many interesting places the bus travels through, so whether you like being in the great outoors, paddling in the sea, or meandering in pretty market towns, there’s bound to be a stop for you if you don’t want to take the full route.
Want To Try It Yourself?
- To enjoy the same scenic bus route as we did on the 840 Coastliner, take a look at the TransDev website, where you’ll find all of the details, live service updates, timetables and up to date pricing for the journey.
- We travelled on the Coastliner between York and Whitby, and returned on the service too.
- If you’re not near Yorkshire, why not take a look to see what other Scenic bus routes across the UK and maybe find one that you could try?
Cost Of Experience
- We paid just £2 for a single ticket between York and Whitby in September 2024.
- This government supported ‘Price Drop’ fare cap has been extended until further notice, so why not take advantage as it really is a bargain.
Recommendations
- If you are susceptible to travel sickness, I’d recommend sitting towards the front of the bus. The Other Half had a slightly queasy ride on our outbound journey as we were sat upstairs on the back seat. For the return leg, we were upstairs but nearer the front and he felt fine.
- Check your bus times. The timetable may vary on different days and at different times of the year, so always check on the Transdev website before you plan to travel.
- As you’re not driving, you can snack away as much as you like!
- Don’t forget your USB cable to top up the charge on your phone.
- Don’t forget your camera to capture the scenery!
- Let me know how you get on if you give it a go!
I always regard a long bus ride as a real adventure. Lovely pics
Thanks Gail, it is an adventure isn’t it? You never know what you might see on the trip.
Price and travel experience that you can’t beat. Wonderful review for a part of the country that I’ve rarely been to.
The price is brilliant isn’t it?! Hope you might take the Coastliner if you get to visit Yorkshire! Thank you so much for reading, and the comment, I really appreciate it. :o)
This made my heart sing! I went to Whitby for the first time last year and adored it. I’m also reading a book based in a Yorkshire village at the moment and it provides me such escapism. I’d love to try this. 🚌
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Ah wow! It’s such a lovely part of the world isn’t it? I hadn’t been for a few years and it was so nice to go back. I hope you might get to try the Coastliner if you visit again! That sounds like a fantastic book by the way, anything set in Yorkshire is a winner by me! Thank you so much for reading and commenting. :o)
£2 for a bus ticket is so affordable and it’s great that you got to experience the bus route from York to Whitby! The pictures you shared are lovely!
When I lived in the UK, I used to have some pretty spectacular bus rides to get to/from work, etc., but this one sounds particularly wonderful! I would love to go on a few scenic bus routes.
Are there any scenic bus journey’s where you are? We may be a small island, but there are some especially pretty areas aren’t there? Thank you for commenting and for reading. :o)
Wow! Those views are beautiful and what a great outing! You can take the family for a very affordable price and enjoy a relaxing day! Thanks for sharing!
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Thank you so much! It really is a great price for a family to enjoy a beautiful journey and a trip to the seaside too! I’m pretty sure I’ll be taking this bus again! Thank you so much for reading and replying, I really appreciate it.