Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
2nd April 2022- New Experience Number 38 (retro claim)
Back in April of 2022 I took on the challenge of Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls. It was a fantastic active challenge which saw me walk further than I expected, and took me past some lesser known parts of the city.
As it was now 29th December, and I was fifteen new things away from the annual goal of trying fifty-two things I’d never done before, I decided to retro-claim this activity!
Stepping Up To The Challenge Of Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
We had been talking about challenges, and the Other Half had suggested running every street within the York city walls. This piqued my interest. How far was it and would it be possible?
I started looking at a route using one of my favourite sites for planning journeys on foot – plot a route. I didn’t finish creating a course because the distance soon racked up. It was a bit too far for me to run in one go.
Having hiked to home the previous year however, which covered over eighty miles from York to Manchester, I knew I was in with a shot of being able to walk the distance in a day.
I had a weekend to myself. The weather looked good. I was good to go! That’s pretty much all the planning I did!
The York Walls
The centre of York has been defended by some form of wall since Roman times, and a majority of it still remains intact. In fact, they are the longest medieval town walls in England!
The York Walls now wrap around the main shopping streets of the city, many tourist attractions, and residential areas too.
Covering 3.4km, or just over 2 miles, you can walk the full route – mostly on the actual walls themselves. This includes six ‘bars’ built into the walls which provide access to the centre. Four of these are impressive turreted gatehouses, whilst the other two are smaller and less-assuming but still worth a stop at.
A walk on the walls is a great way to see the city for both visitors and locals at any time of year. You’re often elevated above the streets so it’s a great vantage point to see the city and It also gives some fabulous views of The Minster.
Walking every street, footpath or snickleway within the walls was going to be another brilliant way to see the city, and some of the more unique things hiding in plain sight.
Planning On Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
So, I didn’t have a very sophisticated plan. I didn’t plot anything out, or follow a map. Instead, I went with my local knowledge, and occasionally had a look at google maps to check I hadn’t accidentally missed any where.
I was going to walk everywhere within the walls that I was able to, unless it was private property or closed for any reason.
As a rough idea for a route, I visualised the map in different sections and completed each one in turn. I’ve created a very basic map to give you an idea of how I divided it all up.
Below I’ve written about some of the things I saw in the different sections I covered when walking every street within the York walls. I’ve only scratched the surface of the things to see and the history to find. I’d need to write a whole book to include everything!
Walmgate, Going East To The River Foss
Starting at Walmgate bar, because that was the nearest entrance to the walls for me, I headed northwards.
I covered all of the footpaths and streets that I was able to walk along to the right of Walmgate itself.
This was mostly a residential area with some pockets of history.
My route took me past the National Early Music Centre. This was originally the church of St Margaret’s. It’s been converted into a beautiful venue for intimate concerts, mostly focusing on historical music.
I went by the Red Tower, which is the only brick building on the city walls and dates to around 1490. It has also been known as the Brimstone Tower, when it was used as a storage place for gunpowder.
It’s still in use today, thankfully filled with creativity rather than ammunition, and is used as a community hub.
I walked as far as Hungate Bridge which crosses over the river Foss at quite an industrial looking area.
Known as Rowntree Wharf, the tall brick buildings and water tower were once one of the biggest flour rolling mills in Europe. They’re now private flats which not only have great views over the Foss, but also ducks, geese and the occasional swan for neighbours.
Walmgate, Going West To Piccadilly
The next section I covered was all of the streets to the left of Walmgate up to Piccadilly. Again there were a lot of residential properties, but nestled between the homes was plenty of history.
I passed Fishergate Bar, one of the six gateways in the walls. This bar is not as tall or grand as ‘The Big Four’, but has a colourful decoration with the York coat of arms above the central arch.
The notorious highwayman, Dick Turpin, has a grave stone tucked away in the corner of an often forgotten about cemetery just off Lead Mill Lane. Walking every path within the York Walls took me right to his memorial.
The grand medieval Saint Denys Church on Walmgate itself, was lovely to walk around. It is one of around forty English churches dedicated to the French saint.
I walked along Piccadilly and to The Merchant Adventurer’s Hall. A beautiful timber framed building with sympathetic stone additions. This is where many enigmatic entrepreneurial Yorkshire folk used to meet.
Whilst there are still many business related meetings here now, it’s also a stunning venue for weddings, and perfect for paranormal investigations. It’s also open to visitors to take a look around inside and find out more about the history of the building.
River Foss to Aldwark - Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
Next, I covered the north side of the river Foss and the quiet streets of Aldwark. I’ve always loved walking through here. It is such a quiet area that it’s easy to forget it is right in the city centre.
Along Peasholme Green, I passed by a pretty church.
Apparently this is a site of one of the oldest foundations in York. This 15th century church is now home to St Cuthbert’s House of Prayer, but it’s thought that some building of worship has been on this site since as early as the 7th century.
Tucked away just a few meters from St Cuthbert’s, I wandered through the lovely St Anthony’s Gardens.
York Conservation Trust acquired St Anthony’s Hall back in 2008, and along with it was a rather overgrown plot. The Trust revamped it all, creating the lovely space that it is today. With the York Walls as an end boundary, it’s a beautiful and peaceful space within the heart of the city.
I walked by Bedern Hall, a pretty building sitting snuggly in the Aldwark estate. It often opens as a cafe, and can be hired for weddings and functions. It’s had a fascinating history including being a college for Vicars Choral, and later a pork pie factory!
Feeling small, I walked beneath the impressive towering pillars of Central Methodist Church around the back of Stonebow. This 1840 building was apparently the Centenary Chapel, which commemorated one hundred years since the first Methodist societies were founded.
For this section, I ended at Monk Bar. It is the biggest and most ornate of the bars in the walls. It’s also home to a Richard III museum.
The Tourist Trails - Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
The next section was the main tourist thoroughfare. This was the section with the big hitting tourist tick list. There is a lot to see and mention in this section, so I’ve broken it up into some of the key areas.
The Tourist Trails - Goodramgate
Walking down Goodramgate, I went through the small gateway to Holy Trinity Church. On the wall just through the entrance, I spotted the rainbow plaque recognising Anne Lister. Some parts of the popular TV show, Gentleman Jack, which is heavily based on Anne, were actually filmed in the streets nearby.
Holy Trinity Church itself is hidden away in this tiny little leafy churchyard, just off a busy shopping street. Despite living in the city for over two decades, I had never been to see it! Walking every street in the York walls meant I finally paid a long overdue visit. It was a hidden gem of calm.
The Tourist Trails - The Shambles
I slalomed my way down The Shambles, one of York’s most recognisable Medieval landmarks. The narrow cobble-stoned street with it’s higgledy piggledy overhanging timber framed buildings was, as usual, bustling with tourists. Although this is a picture taken on a quieter moment!
Despite it’s pretty chocolate box appearance today, it was probably less picturesque in the 1800s, when it used to be a street mostly filled with butcher shops! Apparently there were thirty-one butchers shops at one time!
The wooden shelves that can still be seen outside some of the properties were often where cuts of meat were served. I don’t think it would have looked quite so appealing with blood and bones and off cuts strewn about.
More recently, The Shambles has taken on a more magical ambience with many outlets opening that relate to a certain well known wizard. I don’t think it’s ever been clarified, but there are many suggestions that Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter films, was inspired by this iconic little York street.
The Tourist Trails - The Mighty Minster
It’s possible to walk right around York Minster, and I got fantastic views from all of the different angles in one day!
The Minster can be seen from lots of different parts of the city. With the soaring gothic towers, to the Great East Window and the pretty Rose Window, it’s no wonder it attracts so many people.
I often hear the peregrine falcons who nest on the building when I pass on an early morning run, but it was a peak time for visitors when I was passing by on this particular day.
Following The Queens Path, I got the chance to see some of the intricate work by the stonemasons. There are often ground level displays of their work here as they upgrade, and repair many of the delicate parts of The Minster.
The Tourist Trails - Stonegate - Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
Making my way along Stonegate, a paved shopping street flanked by a variety of beautiful listed buildings. It is similar to The Shambles with it’s unusual shop fronts, yet is wider and longer. It’s also home to the headquarters of the York Medical Society, and you can spot a sign near the entrance.
At the top of Stonegate I reached the crossroads where High Petergate intersects Minster Gates and Stonegate.
It’s easy to miss the statue of Minerva who watches over the passers by from her vantage point above the Shared Earth Shop, but I was trying to notice some of the little things as I walked every street within the York walls.
She looks like a very relaxed Goddess of learning and wisdom, as she reclines on a pile of books with a white owl tucked behind her left elbow.
The statue has been here since 1801, and is thought to be a reminder of the numerous book sellers who once lined the street.
Just off Stonegate, I followed the path through the narrow snicket called Coffee Yard. Halfway along the walls open out around a courtyard and timber framed medieval townhouse. Continue along through the alley and the huge glass window lets you see into the grand banqueting room.
The oldest parts of this building, called Barley Hall, are thought to be from the late 1300s. Although it was open for visitors when I passed by, I was on a mission and didn’t have the time to stop on this occassion.
The Tourist Trails - Coney Street
I walked along Coney Street and took the time to appreciate buildings I always seem to be in a hurry when I am passing. There are the obvious sights at St Helen’s Square at one end of Coney Street. This is home to the legendary Betty’s tea rooms, and the magnificent Mansion House where many Lord Mayors have lived and feasted.
It was nice to look up along the main part of Coney Street and notice more than the shops on ground level, such as the three storey timber framed buildings.
On the corner of New Street and Coney Street, I walked by the big Starbucks, and noticed the brightly decorated coat of arms.
I’d always thought it was a very grand building for a coffee shop. The premises used to belong to Beckett’s Bank in the late 1800s. The crest outside was repainted in 2017. The translation of the Latin inscription means ‘for the benefit of all’.
Walking by the 11th century St Martin-le-Grand church and under the big clock, I spotted some funny little characters. There are many intricate stone gargoyles about the building. These two funny faces reaching out from the wall don’t seem to serve any purpose that I could notice, but playfully keep an eye on the passers by.
St Martin-le-Grand church unfortunately suffered severe damage during bombing in April 1942. It was carefully rebuilt in the 60s and stands proudly towards the northern end of Coney Street
I didn’t forget to nip down the small path next to St Martin-le-Grand towards City Screen cinema and Pitcher and Piano bar. You can get lovely views over the Ouse across to North Street gardens.
The Tourist Trails - Bootham Bar
Heading towards Bootham Bar, I passed by the old Assembly Rooms. This grand, pillared building was built in the 18th century and was used for social gatherings of the high class. It is apparently the first neo-classical building build outside of Italy.
Today, the grand ballroom is filled with tables and chairs, surely making it the most impressive building for an Ask restaurant.
I continued onwards to Bootham Bar. Although this is not the original structure, a gateway has been in this spot for over 2000 years! It’s a great sight for people entering the city from Bootham, as the Minster looms up behind it. Perched on the top of the bar are three statues. A much more pleasant view than than the decapitated heads that were often displayed here – thankfully that was a very long time ago.
The Tourist Trails - Clifford's Tower
I got another view of the River Foss as I followed the small footpath around the back of Fenwicks to get to Clifford’s Tower. The river winds its way past the brick buildings as it nears its meeting point with the River Ouse
I walked by Clifford’s Tower. Perched on top of a small hill, it is often petticoated by vibrant daffodils in the spring. The stone built tower at the top is the biggest remaining building from York Castle. It has a macabre history which you can find out more about by visiting inside. A climb up the steps is a great place for a view.
Just over the road and a few meters back in towards town, I passed by the Magistrates Court. I had walked, run, ridden and driven by it so many times, but never paid it too much attention. I stopped to admire the incredible architecture on this symmetrical gothic building with impressive turrets.
The foundation stone was laid by Prince Albert in 1890. It was opened by the Lord Mayor of York two years later and has been a court ever since.
Micklegate - Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
I covered the streets around Micklegate, which means ‘Great Street’
Micklegate bar was traditionally a ceremonial gate for monarchs entering the city. King Charles observed the tradition when he entered the city through Micklegate bar on his visit in November 2022.
Home to the hidden but popular 18th Century pub, The Ackhorne, I followed the narrow cobbles down St Martin’s Lane. This little alley is just one of the roads that links Micklegate to Bishophill.
The lower half of Micklegate is cobbled and gently winds down towards Ouse Bridge.
It has been described by York council as ‘one of the most handsome streets in Yorkshire’. I definitely agree it’s got charm! It has a mix of architecture styles and building sizes which are now used as shops, restaurants, bars and accommodation.
It has recently been the venue for the Micklegate Run Soapbox Challenge, which looks like a very rattly, bone shaking ride for the people in their home made carts!
North Street gardens are a small green space towards the bottom of Micklegate and by the Ouse. I noticed the a memorial to John Snow. Nope, nothing to do with Game Of Thrones. Instead, this John Snow was born in York in 1813 and was a pioneer in the areas of anesthesia and epidemiology.
I strode through the grounds of The Grand Hotel. It really is a beautiful building, and you can see why it was called ‘A Palace of Business’ when it was built back in 1906. Once the headquarters of the North Eastern Railway Company, the most common train related conversations there now are usually to do with wedding dresses. It’s York’s 5 star hotel, with restaurants and bars for non residents, and a brilliant cookery school.
Just down the road from The Grand, where the road from the train station cuts under the bar walls and carries on over Lendal bridge, I noticed the Compass Rose. It’s a colourful stone decoration, which apparently is dated from 1946.
My route in this section took me by several churches including Holy Trinity Church which has large grounds often looking colourful with seasonal blooms, and has stocks as you go through the gate.
Bishophill - Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
The final inner section of the walls that I walked was through Bishophill. Another residential area, that gently slopes down towards the Ouse. It’s got plenty of green space, including a playground, and was nice and quiet after I’d been through busier areas.
This area included a Victorian tower that allows access to the York Walls. The steps in this tower lead up to Baile Hill where there once stood a castle. There are no remains to be seen, only the hill that it was built on.
I walked by the hotel, Middletons, and spotted a fine crest on the end of one of the buildings. Middletons was originally almshouses known as Lady Anne Middletons, and functioned as a hospital, giving housing to several widows.
The crest was on the end of The Terry Memorial Homes which are part of the property. It’s a tribute to Sir Joseph Terry who was the son of the man who founded Terry’s chocolates in York. Sir Joseph Terry not only continued the confectionary trade, he was also a councillor for York, and served as Lord Mayor of the city three times.
The Bishophill section took me to Victoria bar which has a central archway for traffic and two pedestrian arches. It was opened around 1838. Traffic originally only went through Micklegate, so Victoria Bar was opened to help improve the flow, although now it is restricted access.
Snickets - Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
My walk took me through all of the numerous snickets in York city centre. You might also sometimes hear them called snickleways, or ginnels.
These narrow passages between buildings link up more popular thoroughfares. It often feels like walking back in time through these, although I felt like I was being watched down one of them!
Last Lap - Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
Finally, after walking every street, path and snicket that I possibly could within the York city walls, I finished the challenge by walking a full lap on the actual walls.
This was such hard work, firstly because my legs were really tired and definitely ready for a rest. Secondly, it was hard work because where I started this last lap of the walls was very close to home. It took a lot of will power not to succumb to the temptation of a sit down and cup of tea! Despite it being quite slow going, I enjoyed being slightly higher up and looking across the many streets I’d covered.
Quite A 'Feat' - Walking Every Street Within The York City Walls
At the end of the day, I had covered 35.57km, (22 miles), and climbed an elevation of 217 metres. It had taken me 6 hrs 55minutes of walking.
I did very little that evening apart from sit on the sofa!
There may be more efficient ways to walk every street within the York city walls. There are probably routes that would be quicker. However, I set out with a rough idea and really enjoyed it.
I occasionally checked google maps just to make sure I hadn’t forgotten about any side streets, and I loved seeing more of the city I call home.
Want To Try It Yourself?
- If you’re local to York, or coming for a visit, you might want to give this challenge a go!
- Something to bare in mind if you’re thinking of doing this challenge, is that the York city walls are not suitable for pushchairs or wheelchairs, dogs are not allowed, and there are a fair few steps to climb up and down.
- You can always adapt this challenge wherever you are. Maybe you decide to walk every street; within a postcode area; within the defined boundary of a town or city; in a village; within a ring road. Maybe walk an A-Z of streets in your area, or streets where you have lived, or is there something which links several streets historically? There are lots of different ways you can set yourself a similar challenge.
- A challenge like this is a great way to really get to know a place you might think you already know. There are bound to be some hidden gems that you might not have seen before.
- Take a look at the other active experiences I’ve taken on as part of Challenge Fifty-Two.
Cost Of Experience
Free! I did spend around £8 on lunch, so if you want to keep it free then why not take a packed lunch?
Recommendations
- It’s good to have a bit of a plan so you know where you’re going to be walking. I really rate the website plot a route. I regularly use it for plotting running routes or walks. I like the different options for settings and that it shows recognised trails.
- If you’re doing a route that is not familiar to you, then you may want to consider taking a physical map just in case you don’t have coverage to access live data.
- I was walking on paved footpaths and tarmac. I decided to wear my walking boots as they are waterproof. I was doing this in April after all, showers were inevitable!
- I used my Garmin watch to track my route and distance as I went. You might want to track how far you cover with something similar or an app.
- Don’t forget to check the forecast before you set off.
- Definitely take some water with you.
- Don’t forget your camera to get some pictures of your challenge!